Avance: The Finest Lamburger in Philadelphia

At 1523 Walnut Street, I entered the building occupied by the famed Le Bec Fin for the past 40 years. No longer is a destination for fancy French cuisine, it now houses Justin Bogle’s new contemporary American restaurant, Avance.

After arriving at Avance, I was led down a flight of stairs towards the bar, away from the main dining room of the restaurant. The lighting was dim, and I could see a bar made of smooth organic walnut, featuring both tan and chocolate brown wood. Curving around the bar were matching tables and soft brown seats. Amidst the wide selection on the shelves, the amber bottles of liquor seemed to glow, picking up the warm, deep colors of the room. A small candle was lit at each table, and smooth jazz music played faintly in the background, creating a pleasant and relaxing ambiance.

The hostess seated my two friends and me at a corner booth, at a rounded walnut table with uneven edges. Although we declined drinks, we admired the extensive list of creative cocktails, quality wines, and craft beers. We started with a bread basket, served with a side of homemade butter topped with black lava sea salt. The buckwheat bread was grainy and hearty. The egg bread, topped with salt, was reminiscent of challah, and was fluffy and moist.

Next we were served a rather unique appetizer, which the server said was fondly nicknamed “bacon and eggs.” Its presented in an egg carton, with our three edible eggs intermixed with hard-boiled decorative ones. The edible eggs featured a layer of egg yolk foam. On the bottom lay bacon-flavored tapioca pearls, a molecular gastronomic spin on bacon and eggs. We ate the dish with small silver spoons, and we were stunned by fluffy, meringue-like texture, with granular bits at the bottom.

Our main course was the real reason we came to Avance–the new lamb burger. It included a lamb patty from Border Springs Farm, served on a house-made potato bun with feta cheese crumbles, a caramelized red onion compote, and harissa-spiced mayo. It was served with a side of chickpea panisse–thick chickpea fries with chamoula on top. These fries made the large dish even heartier, and the chickpea element complemented the lamb and feta flavors.The pinnacle of the meal was definitely the burger itself.

This burger was heavenly. The rich, creamy feta, the sweet caramelized onion, and the savory, juicy lamb together made it the best lamb burger I’ve ever eaten in Philadelphia.

At only $18, the burger is far cheaper than the majority of Avance’s options, and it is well worth the price. It’s only served at Avance’s bar, lending itself to a more casual atmosphere. I know I’ll be returning to Avance with friends and parents alike just for the burger.  There is  more to explore at Avance, such as the Chef’s 5-Course tasting menu in the main dining area, but the lamb burger at Avance’s bar makes the restaurant an affordable option for a college student on a budget as well.

Avance Restaurant is located at 1523 Walnut Street.Entrees generally range from $31 to $50. Dinner is served beginning at 5:30 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday. The bar opens at 4:00 p.m. Phone: 215.405.0700.  Website: avancerestaurant.com. 

By Farrel Levenson