coZara: Modernizing the Japanese Pub
For those who believe there’s a lack of authentic Japanese food plaguing University City, look no further than coZara. The izakaya-inspired spot is the latest restaurant to open in University City’s Chestnut Square, the same complex housing establishments like Shake Shack, Yogorino, Joe’s, and Zavino.
Chef and owner Hiroyuki “Zama” Tanaka is well-versed in his craft. He previously worked at University City’s Pod before opening his first restaurant Zama in Rittenhouse Square. coZara is his second restaurant, with his return to University City a homecoming of sorts. The menu he crafted with Chef de Cuisine Chris Paulikas and the rest of his team was inspired by izakaya (Japanese pub) mainstays and items they would enjoy eating themselves.
The space contrasts warm red accents and blonde wooden tables with industrial gray tones and black iron chairs. The restaurant is brightly lit, thanks to red silk moiré drum lighting fixtures and the natural glow shining through floor-to-ceiling windows.
There’s seating available on the first floor at small tables and at the bar.
Steps leading up to the second floor bring diners to more seating, including private rooms and a 30-seat outdoor terrace overlooking Chestnut Street’s hustle-and-bustle.
The meal began with deftly-skewered orbs of tomato bacon, the juicy heirloom tomatoes wrapped delicately with salty strips of pork. The contrast of savory meat with fresh vegetables was a light and summery opener.
This was accompanied with a bubbly champagne glass of Prosecco Rose (Enza Veneto Italy). Acidic and light, the sparkling wine had fruity strawberry undertones.
Chicken wings were revamped with Asian flair in a black peppered sesame coating, reminiscent of the real KFC (Korean fried chicken)… time to try coZara’s ZFC (soy fried chicken) on the menu.
The kitchen took a page out of an island travel guide with its Hawaiian tombo poke. The raw fish salad here was made of spicy albacore tuna tartare, with slivers of seaweed a bold color/texture contrast and hints of golden tropical fruit a source of sweetness.
The elegantly-crimped and incredibly savory mushroom wontons will satisfy both carnivores and vegetarians alike. A truffle soy crème brought out the natural flavors of the mushrooms.
This round of dishes was complemented by a glass of yuzu mint chu-hi. Composed of yuzu juice, shochu, and mint vodka, the drink had refreshing tones of cucumber and was stronger than appearances might suggest.
Panko scallops took center stage in hotate katsu, in which the crisp batter encased tender mollusks. The white sauce smeared across the plate was a yuzu soy crème, adding a faintly citrusy kick upon dipping.
Brussels sprouts came piled high in a bowl, tossed with cashew nuts and spicy miso. The nuttiness brought out the vegetal flavor of the miniature cabbages, while the miso added that indescribable umami factor to the dish.
Thin, tender strips of pork curled around trim stalks of scallions in the pork negimaki; the smoked paprika teriyaki that served as a marinade packed a sweet and smoky punch.
To wash everything down, an Asahi white ale did the ticket. The super-dry beer featured notes of coriander and cinnamon.
coZara is a welcome new addition to the University City landscape, especially for its innovative yet classic take on Japanese bites. I can’t wait to explore more of the menu (the unagi nori in truffle eel sauce and the marugoto whole chicken yakitori sound heavenly!).
— Nicole Woon
PC: Nicole Woon & Kyle Born